Chedi Phukhao Thong

The royal chronicles of Ayutthaya, for example the Phan Chantanumat (Choem)’s version, the Phra Chakkraphaddiphong (Chad)'s version and the Phra Racha Hatthalekha version all indicate that King Ramesuan had Wat Phukhao Thong built in 1387 in the early period of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. However, no details of architecture were provided, also the King was dead in that year. Hence it is impossible to pinpoint a valid account on the construction or completion. Moreover, none of the buildings in the compound are as old as the early Ayutthaya period.

No royal chronicles ever mention the construction of the main chedi of Wat Phukhao Thong as well. The most reliable sources are either the Testimonies or the travel journal of foreigners, unfortunately, these documentations often contradict.

Testimony of the Inhabitants of the Old Capital (Khamhaikan Chao Krung Kao) indicate that the chedi was built by Bayinnaung, King of Hongsawadee (Hanthawaddy, now Bago) when he captured Ayutthaya in 1569 and stayed there briefly. It is said that he had Chedi Phukhao Thong built, as followed; “…During the time the King of Hongsawadee resided in the Capital, he ordered a construction of a gigantic chedi at Phukhao Thong Sub-district and bestowed the name Chedi Phukhao Thong as can still be seen…” However, a travel journal of Engelbert Kaempfer, a Dutch physician who visited the capital city of Ayutthaya in 1690 says differently. He stated that the chedi is a memorial of the great victory over the Mon royal troops whereupon the Thai army fought and defeat the enemy. Following this and together with the account in the royal chronicles, it led to an assumption that this victory over the Burmese or Mon troops was the one commandeered by King Naresuan. Particularly, his own personal victory over Phra Maha Uparaja in a duel of the Elephant battle. Some scholars believe that King Naresuan built this chedi as a commemoration of The Great Battle of Yuthahatthi (Chedi Yuthahatthi).

Santi Leksukhum’s study demonstrates that the style of lesser chedis in Wat Phukhao Thong can be dated around the late 16th to early 17th century AD or the reign of King Naresuan. These lesser chedis share the same style of the main chedi’s thus Leksukhum argues that all of them should be constructed simultaneously.

The site was listed and declared an ancient monument in the Government Gazette no. 52, part 75, on 8 March 1935.

The major restoration and conservation was in 1997 sponsored by the Bangkok Life Assurance Public Co.,Ltd. with a 25,000,000-baht budget for archaeological excavations around the chedi’s foundation and ambulatory platform.

Another restoration program was executed during 2007-2008 by Thongchai Kaipetch Public Co.,Ltd. with a million-baht budget. The pre-restored condition of the chedi was damaged by layers of stains from river sediments and molds on the surface, as well as a damage by humidity. Stains, molds and weed which sprouted from cracks between bricks were removed.

Chedi Phukhao Thong is a monumental architecture. It comprises a pyramidal ambulatory platform with a staircase projecting from the middle of all four sides and a 12-angle indented (recessed) body. The upper part of the chedi, which now tilted slightly, is composed of Buddha niches on four sides, triple rings moulding, anindented bell-shaped dome and a spire.

1. Chedi Phukhao Thong is one of the very fine examples of indented chedi or recessed chedi in the Ayutthaya period and an important chedi for studying the art of the mid-Ayutthaya period. It is widely considered to be built in the reign of King Naresuan the Great.

2. Chedi Phukhao Thong stands on an exceptionally high ambulatory platform. A distinct sloping character of the platform, an uncommon feature in Ayutthaya art, engendered some scholars to believe that this was derived from the Mon-styled chedi. It is possible that the platform was built during the Burmese Occupation of Ayutthaya Kingdom.

Miscellaneous

1. Testimony of the King from Wat Pradu Songtham (Khamhaikan Khun Luang Wat Pradu Songtham) from the palace library (Ho Luang) describes this chedi as one of the Five Great Chedis of Ayutthaya: “The Five Great Chedis of the Capital are the Maha Chedi of Wat Suan Luang Sop Sawan, the Maha Chedi of Wat Khun Mueang Chai, the Maha Chedi of Wat Chao Phraya Thai, the 50-meter-high Maha Chedi of Wat Phukhao Thong and the 50-meter-high Maha Chedi of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon.”

2. Testimony of the Inhabitants of the Old Capital (Khamhaikan Chao Krung Kao) mentions numerous temples in Ayutthaya of which Wat Phu Khao Thong was number 28 and said to be built by the King of Hongsawadee (Hanthawaddy, now Bago).

3. The Geography of Ayutthaya (Phumisathan Krung Si Ayutthaya) identifies the Chedi Wat Phukhao Thong as one of Ayutthaya’s Great Chedis in a suburbia group, as followed; “Also, the Great Chedi of Ayutthaya are three Maha Prasats and the Maha That Wat Phra Ram, Wat Na Phra That, Wat Ratchabunna [sic] and the Maha Chedi Wat Suan Luang Sop Sawan, Wat Khun Mueang Chai and the Buddha image of Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkon Bophit. In the suburbs of a city are the 92-meter-high Maha Chedi Wat Chao Phaya Thai, the 50-meter-high Wat Phukhao Thong and the Buddha image of Wat Phanaeng Choeng[sic] rebuilt by King Sampotian on the older statue. A finial of Chedi Wat Chao Phaya Thai Pa Kaew in a form of crystal sphere casts its shadow onto the land of this sub-district outside of the capital city.”

4. Engelbert Kaempfer’s A Description of the Kingdom of Siam portrays Chedi Phukhaothong’s characteristic which was not different from its current appearance; “Pyramid Pkah Thon or Puka’ Thon, which stands on a plain one League North West of the City. It was built by the Siamites[sic] in remembrance of a great victory obtain’d in that place over the King of Pegu, whom they kill’d and defeated his numerous Army, thereby freeing themselves of the subjection they were under to the Peguans, and restoring their ancient Liberty. It is a bulky, but magnificent structure, forty odd fathoms high, standing in a square taken in with a low neat wall. It consists of two structures which are built one upon the other. The lowermost structure is square, each side being one hundred and fifteen paces long, and rises to the height of twelve fathoms and upwards. Three corners jet out some few paces on each side, which are continu’d up to the top, and altering its square figure make it appear, as it were, multangular. It consists of four Stories, built one upon the other, the uppermost of which growing narrower leaves at the top of that below it an empty space, or walk to go round. Every Story hath its Cornishes curiously diversify’d, and all the walks, the lowermost only excepted, are taken in with low neat walls adorn’d in each corner with fine columns. The middlemost corner of each Story represents the frontispiece of the Building. It exceeds the others in beauty and ornaments, especially in a magnificent gable it ends into. The Stair-case is in the middle of it, which leads up to the upper area on which is built the second structure, and consists of seventy four steps each nine Inches high, and four paces long. The second structure is built on the upper surface of the first, which is square, each side being thirty six paces long. It stands out in the middle for ornament’s sake, and is taken in like the rest, with a low neat wall. It hath a walk five paces broad to go about the second structure. The Stair-case ends into this walk, each side of its entry being adorn’d with columns. The basis, or pedestal of the second structure is octangular, consisting of eight sides of different length, those facing South, East, West and North, being eleven, but the North East, South East, South West and North West sides, each twelve paces long. it hath its Cornishes much after the manner of the lowermost structure to the height of some fathoms. It then becomes not unlike a Steeple, on whose top stand several short columns at some distances from each other, the spaces between being left empty. These columns support a pile of globes, which run up tapering, their diameters decreasing in proportion to the height. The whole ends into a very long Spire, and withal so sharp, that it is very surprizing, how it could hold out for so considerable a space of time against all the injuries of wind and weather. Next to this Pyramid are some Temples and Colleges of the Talapoins, which are taken in with particular neat brick walls. The Temples are of a very curious Structure, cover’d with several roofs, supported by columns.”

Northern chronicles recount a tale of Chedi Phukhao Thong by which its builder was Phra Naresuanhongsa. He came to Ayutthya with his troops and sent his words to King Narai of Ayutthaya involving a competition of constructing a chedi in which whose chedi was the first to finish would be a winner. Hence, Phra Naresuanhongsa built Chedi Phukhao Thong with the dimensions of 120 m. wide and 289 m. high. Meanwhile Phra Narai who was building Chedi Chaimongkhon saw Chedi Phukhao Thong's rapid progress, he thus laid a trick by building wooden skeleton and wrapping with a white cloth. King Naresuanhongsa spotted this from afar thinking that Chedi Chaimongkhon was already finished. King Naresuanhongsa, a victim of deception, thus withdrew his army and returned to his land.

สันติ เล็กสุขุม, เจดีย์เพิ่มมุม เจดีย์ย่อมุม สมัยอยุธยา กรุงเทพฯ : มูลนิธิ เจมส์ ทอมป์สัน, 2529.

ศิลปากร, กรม, ทะเบียนโบราณสถาน. กรุงเทพฯ : กรมศิลปากร, 2532.

ไทยในจดหมายเหตุแกมเฟอร์ พระนคร : กรมศิลปากร, 2487.

ห้างหุ้นส่วนจำกัด ดับเบิลยู เอ อาร์ คอนสตรัคชั่น, รายงานโครงการฟื้นฟูโบราณสถานอันเนื่องมาจากอุทกภัยพ.ศ. 2554 : การบูรณะโบราณสถานวัดภูเขาทอง ตำบลภูเขาทอง อำเภอพระนครศรีอยุธยา จังหวัดพระนครศรีอยุธยา. กรุงเทพฯ: ห้างหุ้นส่วนจำกัด ดับเบิลยู เอ อาร์ คอนสตรัคชั่น, 2555.